This old house can be energy efficient

Q: I bought an older house that is structurally sound, but it is not very efficient. My budget is limited, so how do I determine which energy-saving improvements to do first without losing its character?

A: An "older" house does not have to be extremely old to be energy inefficient. Most houses built before the early 1970s lack many of the efficiency features and designs that are considered commonplace in today's homes.

Upgrading the energy efficiency of some older houses can be difficult, but it's not impossible. This is particularly true when the house is on a historical register or you may have received a rebate or tax abatement because of its age and character.

Prioritize your energy conservation improvements by which ones have the greatest impact upon the utility bills. The greatest amount of energy consumed in most houses is by the mechanical systems for conditioning (heating and cooling) the living space and for hot water.

If very little has been done to improve the efficiency of this house in the past, it probably has an inefficient heating system. Check the furnace to be sure.

The water heater tank probably has only one-inch of fiber insulation with a low EF (energy factor). You can install a new water heater immediately, but before installing a new furnace and/or air conditioner, consider your total budget for the improvements.

If you can afford to do many efficiency improvements, the final maximum heating and cooling requirements of your house will be much less than now. If you size a new efficient furnace for the current heating needs, it will be oversized when all the improvements are completed.

Once the new mechanical systems have been sized properly and installed, pay attention to the attic insulation. This is an area of both thermal heat loss and heated air leakage during winter. During summer, it can be the most significant source for uncomfortable overheating and high air-conditioning costs.

If the roof is old, consider installing an efficient metal roof. Many older homes initially had metal roofs. Add more attic insulation to a level higher than the minimum amount recommended for your area. Adding attic insulation, either rolled or blown-in, is a simple do-it-yourself project.

Since you can save the labor costs, invest the extra amount in thicker insulation levels. While insulating, caulk and seal up any air leaks, especially along the foundation.

Depending upon the condition of the windows and doors, replacing them with more efficient ones would be my next improvement. If you want, or if you are forced to retain the original appearance because of historic district requirements, you can install efficient sash-only replacement kits. They are almost as efficient as completely new windows and are slightly less expensive.

The amount of energy savings from insulating the walls is house specific. If only a small gap is available for adding insulation, it often is not worthwhile. Have several insulation contractors inspect it for you.

Finally, install new Energy Star qualified appliances and lighting products.

If you live in a historic district, be sure to check local codes that govern changes to your home before starting your project.

Q: I have an in-ground swimming pool and I think the electric filter pump uses a lot of electricity, based upon my utility bills. Are there any more efficient types of pump motors that use less electricity?

A: Most pump motors use a traditional-design one- or two-speed split capacitor motor. These generally run at a speed higher than is actually needed to keep the pool clean, and this wastes electricity.

There are new variable-speed, permanent magnet pump motors, made by Pentair (www.pentairpool.com), which can be retrofit to your filter system. The speed can be set to your pool's needs saving a significant amount of electricity.

Send inquiries to James Dulley, The Post and Courier, 6906 Royalgreen Drive, Cincinnati, OH 45244 or visit www.dulley.com.