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Sushi

Deidre Schipani

Melissa Haneline
The Post and Courier

Sushi creations and tuna, salmon and flounder sashimi by sushi chef David Lin at Osaka restaurant in West Ashley.

Some report that the sushi boom is over because the oceans are being over-fished, the fish being served is mediocre and rice — the foundation of all sushi — is clumpy, hard or even soggy.

This delicate, ordered experience has come a long way from its Japanese roots.

But there also is a movement under way for sushi to deliver satori, or lasting enlightenment. "Hand" sushi is the ultimate preparation in which the hand is seen as part of the sushi process and the chef places the sushi from his hand into yours. Sushi chefs also are shaving their heads so that not even a hair gets in the way of their concentration. We are not there, yet.

This is not a town of fugo and hamo. But it is clear that we have a real affection for the rituals, practice and flavors of sushi and that is in its very essence what draws us to sushi — the art, the skill and then the ultimate gift —"I have made this for you."

Shi Ki

334 East Bay St., downtown

720-8568

$$-$$$

A small, intimate place, Shi Ki is as slender as a piece of sashimi. This popular Japanese restaurant delivers the full spectrum of sushi choices. Grab a seat at the bar and let the fruits of the sea command your attention. Trust yourself to the itamae-san (sushi master) and let the friendly staff take over.

Tuna Tataki, with its edges seared to a toasty finish, is served with a tart ponzu sauce. Baby octopus has a tender chewy texture. The unagi is grilled and all of the eel's sweetness is retained, making the rice's tart notes finish with a clean flourish of flavor. They prepare the delicate tamago (egg custard) and use smelt roe the way many sushi places use tobigo (flying fish roe). The menu is extensive and you can end with a bowl of portly udon noodles or the chewy soba noodles topped with vegetable.

Osaka

100 Folly Road, West Ashley

852-9979

$$-$$$

Osaka oddly enough has both a sushi menu and Chinese menu but that augurs well if you are the sushi eater in the midst of those who do not eat it and fans of Chinese cooking as well. However, you will find that the vinegared rice of sushi will please many who do not care to eat sashimi, raw fish. Osaka is not only a city in Japan but a style of sushi in which larger portions of fish are placed on smaller portions of rice; the opposite occurs in the more mainstream Tokyo (Edo) style.

In homage to its location, Osaka has a Charleston Roll with a tempura salmon filling, served with a lather of a spicy sauce that has a nice hit of heat.

The traditional hand rolls are full and fans of tekka-maki will not be disappointed. The tuna is subtle with its sweet richness, and the rice is just the right temperature to release the flavors of the fish.

Spider rolls are crisp and the ebi (shrimp) are tender. Purists will stick with the unagi (eel), sake (salmon), maguro (tuna) and hamachi (yellow tail).

Their version of the Volcano Roll comes complete with Lava Sauce. The fish seasons are attended to and that makes Osaka fresh and fun.