European producers fret over growing popularity of artisanal American cheeses

It's a strange turn for a nation that for years judged its cheeses by how well they melt in the microwave.

But suddenly, the nation is being inundated by high-end cheeses that challenge the palate in ways industrial cheese couldn't dream, cheeses that for once have Europeans looking west with envy.

Welcome to the world of America's cutting-edge curds, where obscure cheeses can attain cult status and massive grocery chains tout cheeses that once wouldn't have made it in the door.

Mainstream retailers are jumping into the specialty cheese market like never before, says cheese expert Laura Werlin, author of "Laura Werlin's Cheese Essentials."

"Everybody is going to have more exposure and the ability to buy these cheeses," she says.

Why the sudden cheese surge? In some ways, it's a case of money talking.

Artisanal cheese is one of the fastest growing segments of the $59 billion gourmet food industry, with cheese and dairy expected to see double-digit growth through 2012, according to consumer research firm Packaged Facts.

Much of that growth will come from specialty and artisanal cheeses.

That demand has translated into retailers clamoring for the product. But it also goes deeper.

The collective American palate has become increasingly adventurous and sophisticated, thanks in part to a pervasive food media that has helped turn the U.S. into a nation of would-be foodies.

When the American Cheese Society was first formed 25 years ago, board members could count on their hands the number of American cheesemakers producing farmstead cheeses, says board director David Grotenstein.

Now, they number in the hundreds.

And the group, which gives out the most coveted American cheese awards, has seen the number of cheeses entered into its competitions balloon from 300 cheeses in 2001 to more than 1,200 last year.

Hand-crafted and small-batch simply isn't enough anymore. To have curd cachet now requires a cave.

A tremendous focus now is being given to the aging of cheeses, and high-tech caves where that can happen are starting to show up around the country.

Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro, Vt., for example, recently opened an ultramodern 22,000-square-foot aging cellar that is the buzz of the cheese world.

All the attention on American cheeses has the French toiling to hold on to their share of the U.S. market.

In July, the French government formed the Cheeses of France Marketing Council and launched a campaign to remind American consumers to "remember that the original is France," says Phillipe Jachnik, the group's chairman.

"We have witnessed an incredible increase of French cheese in the United States," says Jachnik. "The biggest beneficiaries of that has been the cheese producers in the United States."

As more Americans have acquired a taste for good cheese — no doubt fueled by the 22,000 tons of French farmstead cheeses imported last year alone — more U.S. cheesemakers have angled to produce it.

"It's putting European producers on their toes," says Werlin.

CHEESES WORTH THE HUNT

Ready to move beyond the obvious at the cheese counter? Here are some up-and-coming cheeses that are all the chatter on the cheese scene. You may not find them everywhere, but they are worth the hunt.

-- California Crottin from Redwood Hill Farm (Sebastopol, Calif.)

This goat farm's gem is its California Crottin, a creamy cheese that has twice won the American Cheese Society's Best in Show award. These mini wheels form a blond, wrinkly texture with age while developing an earthy robustness on par with their French counterparts. (redwoodhill.com)

-- Clothbound Cheddar from Cabot (Montpelier, Vt.)

This traditional English-style cheddar, handcrafted using old techniques, is the crown jewel from an otherwise industrial cheesemaker. It tastes more like an excellent Parmesan than a cheddar. It won a gold medal at the world cheese awards in 2004 and Best in Show from the American Cheese Society in 2006. (cabotcheese.com)

-- Grayson from Meadow Creek Dairy (Galax, Va.)

Like an Italian tallegio, this washed rind cheese is crafted from cow's milk and washed with a brine that aids in the development of its pungent orange-red rind and semi-soft, velvety texture with hints of nuts and sweet flavors. (meadowcreekdairy.com)

-- Oregonzola from Rogue Creamery (Central Point, Ore.)

This Gorgonzola-style cheese is aged 120 days in the caves of this southern Oregon farm, giving the creamy textured cow's milk curd deep blue veins and flavors that span sharp, tangy and fruity. (roguecreamery.com/pilot.asp)

-- Pleasant Ridge Reserve from Uplands Cheese Co. (Dodgeville, Wis.)

Often referred to as one of the best American cheeses, Pleasant Ridge Reserve is made from cow's milk in the French Alpine tradition. This hard cheese is aged four months and has accumulated numerous awards. It is dry, sharp, yet pleasantly sweet. (uplandscheese.com)

-- San Andreas from Bellwether Farms (Sonoma County, Calif.)

This aged sheep's milk cheese has none of the mustiness sometimes associated with this style cheese. Made from raw milk, San Andreas is a smooth, lightly sharp table cheese that pairs nicely with red wine. (bellwethercheese.com/home/)