Photo by Larry Gleason
The Aiken Steeplechase
Click here for a slideshow of Aiken
Today Aiken is somewhat old-fashioned, but it is cosmopolitan in its direction.
It is always an adventure to leave the beach and travel inland to South Carolina’s scenic countryside. Perhaps because I have spent my life on the coast and in the mountains, sometimes the quaint zip codes of the heartlands take a back seat to their neighbors in lower or higher altitudes. There are many places like this in the South that surprise because they are often smaller towns that unless you grew up visiting due to tradition, a passionate pastime, or a family connection, you just wouldn’t think of going there. But once you arrive, you’re so glad you did. Let me introduce you to Aiken!
THEN
Located two and a half hours west of Charleston, on the South Carolina National Heritage Corridor (U.S. Highway 78), Aiken has enough heritage to outfit a city block of museums – and it nearly does!
It all started with the South Carolina Canal and Railroad Company in the 1830s, which transported travelers from Charleston to Hamburg (North Augusta) on the Savannah River. In 1835 Aiken appeared next door, and wealthy Charlestonians began arriving in the summers to escape heat and malaria.
Thanks to Gen. Joseph Wheeler’s successful opposition to Sherman’s raid in 1865, Aiken recovered quickly from the Civil War. Shortly after, upon hearing tales of ideal soil, climate, and setting for equestrian sports and training, wealthy Northerners such as the Vanderbilts, Hitchcocks, and Whitneys took the eastern railway to their new winter getaway. The “Winter Colony” was an indulgence of leisurely sports: fox hunting, polo, horse racing, riding and steeplechasing. That legacy of elite leisure is alive as ever in Aiken.
NOW
Today Aiken is somewhat old-fashioned, but it is cosmopolitan in its direction. Known for its open spaces and strong real estate market, retirees there enjoy art galleries, boutiques, and antiquing. So, in the “Town the Horses Built,” not everything is about horse and game, but almost.
Many of its avenues are named after distinguished thoroughbreds, races, and racing venues. Forty champions have come out of Aiken, and the city pays tribute to its winners from events like the Triple Crown, the Preakness, Run for the Roses, the Kentucky Derby, and various other stakes. As an arts initiative and homage to Aiken’s equestrian nobility, hand-painted “Horseplay” horse sculptures are displayed throughout the city.
Home to a few dozen polo professionals, the sport is still played on Sunday afternoons just as it has been since 1882. Florida-level, high-goal play has been brought to the area in the last 20 years. Fox hunting still happens in Hitchcock Woods from mid-September to mid-March, while more than 350 thoroughbreds are stabled around town for training in winter.
In March the city hosts the world famous Triple Crown over three weekends, beginning with the Aiken Trials, followed by Aiken Steeplechase, and finishing with world-class polo tournaments.
When not horsing around, there is plenty to do around the historic district, which is experiencing avid revitalization. Meander into the Old Aiken Market to nibble on organic, local food delicacies or visit the historic Aiken Farmer’s Market to smell fresh cut flowers and browse local crafts. The new Aiken Community Playhouse packs in audiences regularly. This spring they will be ticketing for “M*A*S*H” and “Dearly Departed.”
The Alley, located off Newberry Street, is literally an alley where you can get barbecue, tapas, sushi, or brew at one of the several food and spirits establishments, including Davor’s or The West Side Bowery.
Whatever your pleasure, the time to take advantage of this town is in the spring when Aiken puts its best hoof forward! And best of luck to you – I hope your horse wins!
LET’S SLEEP
The Willcox Inn
100 Colleton Ave. | (877) 648-2200 | www.thewillcox.com
Lukas: My personal favorite – a historic, elegantly restored hotel that is the epitome of early American luxury. You have to see their first edition library!
Rose Hill Estate
221 Greenville St. NW | (803) 648-1181 | www.rosehillestate.com
Carriage House Inn
139 Laurens St. NW | (803) 644-5888 | www.aikencarriagehouse.com
General Elliott Inn
939 New Bridge Road | (888) 642-8108 | www.generalelliottinn.com
LET’S EAT
Linda’s Bistro
135 York St. SE | (803) 648-4853 | www.lindasbistro-aiken.com
Lukas: A warm bistro serving rich, simple cuisine.
Riley’s Whitby Bull
801 East Pine Log Road | (803) 641-6227 | www.rileyswhitbybull.com
Lukas: A truly original, albeit slightly strange, Southern fine-dining restaurant.
Up Your Alley
222 The Alley | (803) 649-2603
Lukas: A tasty family restaurant offering a little bit of everything.
The Curry Pot
1028 Pine Log Road | (803) 641-1805
Lukas: Indian cuisine that is absolutely mouth-watering.
LET’S HANG
The West Side Bowery
151 Bee Lane SW | (803) 648-2900 | www.westsidebowery.com
Lukas: Great patio!
Aiken Brewing Company
140 Laurens St. SW | (803) 502-0707 | www.aikenbrewingcompany.com
Lukas: Catchy beer names include Thoroughbred Red, Standard Bred Golden Honey Wheat, and Steeplechase Oatmeal Stout.
LET’S GO
Get your camera out and drive down the majestic oak tunnel that is South Boundary Road. This street once lead to the antebellum Crossways Plantation and is lined by trees that are almost 200 years old. www.sciway.net/photos/aiken-sc.html
The Aiken County Historical Museum is inside a 1930s winter colony mansion called “Banksia.” On the intriguing property, surrounded by a serpentine wall, are a one-room schoolhouse and log cabin built in the 1800s. www.aikencountysc.gov/DspDept.cfm?qDeptI...
Come to the Aiken’s Makin festival in early September for two days of citywide street cuisine, entertainment, and artisan offerings. More than 300 vendors sell everything from pottery to stained glass. aikensmakin.com/
LET’S PLAY
At nearly 2,100 acres, Hitchcock Woods is one of the largest urban forests in the United States. This giant, historic, natural playground is treasured by the people of Aiken, who walk pets or ride horses through more than 65 miles of trails and bridges. hitchcockwoods.org
Hopelands Gardens and Rye Patch are the former estates of two prominent local women that bequeathed the land to the city of Aiken for the citizens to enjoy free of charge for generations. Combined, they amount to 24 acres of public gardens, fountains, wetlands, a scent/touch/braille trail for the blind, a performance stage, a labyrinth, the Thoroughbred Racing Hall of Fame & Museum, the Carriage Museum, and stables. www.aiken.net/index.php?page=233
Take a swing during the Masters Golf Tournament, April 7-13, at The Palmetto Golf Club, which is private play except during the Masters. The Palmetto Golf Club is the second oldest in-operation golf club in the United States. Hole #7 is considered to be one of the most challenging in the country. www.masters.org, www.palmettogolfclub.net
GETTING THERE
Hop on over to nearby Springfield, S.C., for the Governor’s Frog Jump, a “farmer’s festival” that has been held on-site since April 1969. It occurs on the Saturday before Easter each year and is like something you would read about in a Mark Twain story, which is where the inspiration came from! Learn more at springfieldsc.us/governor.htm.
Click here for a slideshow of Aiken
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