coastal cuisine: Tuna tacos

So simple, and so good

Abi Nicholas

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Tyrone Walker
The Post and Courier

The fish taco can be reduced to a simple equation: Fish + Tortilla = Fish Taco.

Rather primitive, but that’s how they did it thousands of years ago in the coastal areas of Mexico, when indigenous North American peoples first wrapped their saltwater catches into stone-ground corn tortillas.

But times — and tacos — have changed.

First, a little history: About 1520, when the Aztec Empire was at its height, Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes (also known as Hernando Cortez) led a march on Mexico City, dethroning Montezuma II. Thus, New Spain was born.

As was the modern-day taco, fusing Aztec staples like maize (corn), tomatoes and bean paste with Spanish fare like pork, beef, lamb, garlic, cheese, wheat and citrus fruits. (Random fact: The native Hanuatl name for flat corn breads was tlaxcalli; the Spanish gave them the name tortilla.)

Perhaps just as important as the upgraded taco was the first-ever “taco bash,” a banquet Cortes hosted for his captains with fresh pigs brought over from Cuba.

By no means are we knocking the original fish tacos of the Aztecs — they certainly understood the adage “less is more” — we’re just saying that a twist on an old favorite can be absolutamente deliciosa.

Like the Tuna Taco on the menu at Taco Boy.

Not your typical mild white fish lightly battered and fried, this tuna is dipped in a coalition of 10 different spices, cooked to your discerning palate’s delight and topped with a tangy chipotle slaw. The only ingredient

that hasn’t changed since the 1500s is the corn tortilla.

Muchas gracias to Taco Boy’s kitchen manager Pete Smith for rolling his tuna taco recipe our way. These little gems are a refreshing addition to our summer bill of fare, not to mention perfect for our next taco bash.

Tuna Tacos

◗ 3-oz portion Ahi tuna (per person)

◗ Corn tortillas

Southwest Seasoning

◗ ½ cup chili powder

◗ ½ cup paprika

◗ ¼ cup ground coriander

◗ ¼ cup salt

◗ ½ cup cumin

◗ 1 tablespoon cayenne

◗ 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper

◗ 1 tablespoon black pepper

◗ 1 tablespoon dried oregano

Slaw Mix

◗ ½ cup mayo

◗ ½ cup sugar

◗ 3 cloves garlic puree

◗ 1 tablespoon white vinegar

◗ 1 tablespoon olive oil

◗ ½ can chipotle peppers in adobo sauce

Slaw Kit

◗ 2 heads green cabbage (shaved to desired thickness)

◗ ½ red onion (julianne)

◗ ½ red bell pepper (julienne)

◗ ½ bunch washed and chopped cilantro

Preparation

Whisk all of the spices for the Southwest seasoning together in mixing bowl and set aside.

Combine all of the ingredients for the slaw mix and pour over the slaw kit. Mix well. It’s best to make the slaw a couple hours before serving to allow all of the different flavors and ingredients to mingle. The longer the slaw sits, the more tender the cabbage will become.

Coat each side of the tuna with the Southwest seasoning and pan-sear on each side until desired temperature.

To assemble the tacos: Steam the corn tortilla shells, then add small portions of chipotle slaw, then thinly sliced tuna on top.

coastal cuisine: Tuna tacos

So simple, and so good

The fish taco can be reduced to a simple equation: Fish + Tortilla = Fish Taco.

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