Playing with pasta

One of the most affordable meals offers a variety of shapes to try

Grace Beahm
The Post and Courier

More and more pasta shapes are making their way onto U.S. supermarket shelves.

With so many fun pasta shapes available, we don't know whether to play with them or eat them.

The answer is: Do both.

Squiggles, pipes, bow ties and radiatorlike pieces invite the cook to step out of the box to try something besides the same-old, same-old. Enjoying food is a lot about visual appeal, so a new look might be appreciated at the table — especially by the kids.

According to the National Pasta Association of the United States, more than 600 pasta shapes are produced around the world. Hundreds of those are made in Italy, which, if not the birthplace of pasta, is seen as its shrine.

Most of those pastas don't make it across the Atlantic. But depending on where you live and shop, you can expect to find at least a dozen dry varieties in most U.S. grocery stores, and often many more.

"Pasta is still one of the most affordable family meals," says Todd Philbrick, associate director of the pasta association.

As the price of durum wheat shot up in the past year, so did the cost of pasta products, but the worst may be over.

"Prices are leveling off and hopefully that will continue," Philbrick says.

Meanwhile, pasta shapes are not just about form. They have a function as well, which is how best to deliver the sauce and its flavor.

The rule of thumb is, the bolder and chunkier the sauce, the brawnier the pasta.

--Finer strands, such as angel hair, are best with lighter, smooth sauces.

--Pasta pieces with holes, ridges or "nesting" places are ideal for chunky sauces because they trap the sauce. Graduate to larger pastas, such as rigatoni or other big tubes, as the chunks get bigger.

Sturdy pastas also generally work better in pasta salads and baked casseroles.

Consider, too, that it's easier for most people to eat shapes than strands or ribbons. They might be the best option when serving kids or a group.

Translating the pasta names is a delightful lesson in Italian.

For example, fusilli means "little springs," radiatore is "little radiators" and orecchiette is "little ears."

For good measure

Per person, figure on 2 ounces of dry pasta for a first course and at least 4 ounces of dry pasta for a main course. One pound of dry pasta serves 6 to 8 as a first course and 4 to 5 as a main course, according to "The Joy of Cooking's" "All About Pasta & Noodles."

Additionally, here are some general guidelines for measuring dry vs. cooked pasta, from the National Pasta Association:

--8 ounces of uncooked small to medium pasta shapes equal 4 cups cooked. Examples: elbow macaroni, medium shells, rotini, twists, spirals, wagon wheels (rotelle), bow ties (farfalle), penne, ziti, radiatore, rigatoni.

--8 ounces of uncooked long pasta (a 1 1/2-inch diameter bunch) equal 4 cups cooked (examples: spaghetti, angel hair, linguine, vermicelli, fettuccine).

--8 ounces of uncooked egg noodles equal 2 1/2 cups cooked.

Play by the rules

It's surprising how many people make up their own rules for cooking pasta, and then wonder what went wrong. For dry pastas, here's what to know:

--Follow the package directions, especially for cooking times.

--Use a large pot. Per pound of pasta, figure on at least 6 quarts of boiling water and 1 tablespoon of salt. Eliminate salt only if you must; it boosts flavor.

--Do not add oil to the water. It will prevent the sauce from clinging to the pasta.

--Do not break pasta before cooking. Push long strands into the water as they soften.

--The water should be at a hard boil before adding the pasta. Return to a hard boil quickly.

--Stir initially and several more times during the cooking process.

--Dry pasta should be cooked through but still have a bit of firmness to the bite — al dente.

--Immediately drain cooked pasta in a large colander. Do not rinse unless it will be baked or served in a cold salad. (Before draining, you may reserve a cup of the cooking liquid to add to sauces to increase their body).

--Quickly combine the pasta with the sauce after draining.

Sample suppers

This recipe is adapted from Williams-Sonoma's "Pasta" cookbook (Simon & Schuster 2001).

Green Farfalle With Gorgonzola Sauce

Makes 4 main-course or 6 first-course servings

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 shallots, minced

1 pound green or regular farfalle, fusilli or penne

1/2 cup chicken stock

1/2 pound Gorgonzola dolcelatte cheese (see cook's note), rind removed, cut into small pieces

3/4 cup heavy cream

Grated zest of 1 lemon

Salt and freshly ground pepper

6 fresh sage leaves, coarsely chopped

Handful of fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, coarsely chopped

Cook's note: Gorgonzola labeled "dolcelatte" or "dolce" is creamy, soft and only mildly pungent. Older, riper Gorgonzola labeled "naturale" is too overpowering for this recipe. Otherwise, any mild blue cheese may be substituted.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Meanwhile, in a large frying pan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the shallots and saute until soft, about 4 minutes.

Generously salt the boiling water, add the pasta, and cook until al dente, 9 to 11 minutes.

Reduce the heat under the frying pan to low and add the stock, cheese, cream and lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper to taste and stir until all the ingredients are smooth and melted, about 4 minutes.

Drain the pasta and add it to the frying pan. Remove from the heat, add the sage and parsley, and toss briefly until the pasta is well coated with the sauce. If the sauce seems too thick, add a bit more chicken stock or a splash of hot water. Pour into a warmed, large, shallow bowl. Serve immediately.

The spicy, chunky sauce of Caribbean Pasta With Shrimp, from the "Hot Pasta" cookbook, is a good fit with the shape of radiatore ("little radiators") pasta. Photo by Teri Sandison

Adapted from "Hot Pasta" by Hugh Carpenter & Teri Sandison (Ten Speed Press, 1996), this recipe showcases the flavors of the Caribbean. For variety, substitute unsweetened coconut milk for the chicken stock, replace the cilantro with a blend of chopped mint and basil, or omit the chile sauce and add finely minced fresh serrano or Scotch bonnet chiles.

Caribbean Pasta With Shrimp

Serves 4 as a main entree

1 1/2 pounds raw medium shrimp

4 cloves garlic, finely minced

1/4 cup minced shallots

1 tablespoon finely minced ginger

3 tablespoons flavorless cooking oil

8 ounces dried radiatore, fusilli or your favorite pasta

1/2 cup cilantro sprigs

For sauce:

1 green bell pepper, seeded and chopped

1 1/2 cups seeded and chopped vine-ripened tomatoes

2 teaspoons curry powder

1/2 teaspoon allspice berries, finely crushed

1/2 cup chicken stock

1/4 cup Grand Marnier

2 tablespoons thin soy sauce

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

2 teaspoons cornstarch

1 teaspoon Caribbean or Asian chile sauce

Advance preparation: Shell, devein and split the shrimp lengthwise nearly in half; then refrigerate. In a small bowl, combine the garlic, shallots, ginger and oil. In separate containers, set aside the pasta and cilantro. In a small bowl, combine all the ingredients for the sauce, then refrigerate. All advance preparation steps may be completed up to 8 hours before you begin the final cooking steps.

Final cooking steps: Chop the cilantro. Bring 4 quarts of water to a rapid boil. Lightly salt the water, then cook the pasta according to the instructions on the package. When the pasta loses its raw texture but is still slightly firm, remove from the heat and drain.

Meanwhile, place a 12- or 14-inch saute pan over high heat. When hot, add the garlic-oil mixture. Saute until the garlic begins to sizzle but has not browned. Stir the sauce, then pour into the saute pan. Bring the sauce to a rapid boil, and cook until it begins to thicken, about 3 minutes.

Stir in the shrimp. Stir and toss the shrimp until they turn white and have just lost their raw interior color (cut into one to check), about 2 minutes. Immediately add the pasta. Stir and toss until evenly combined and well-heated. Taste and adjust the seasonings, especially for salt. Transfer the pasta to a heated platter or four heated dinner plates. Sprinkle on the cilantro and serve at once.

This recipe, adapted from "Joy of Cooking's" "All About Pasta & Noodles" (Scribner, 2000), calls for broccoli rabe, also known as rapini. Broccoli rabe has a pleasantly bitter taste, like many greens. But regular broccoli may be substituted here, using 1 to 1 1/2 pounds, stems peeled and coarsely chopped.

Orecchiette With Sausage and Broccoli Rabe

8 first-course servings or 4 main-course servings

1/4 cup olive oil, preferably extra virgin

4 sweet Italian sausages (about 1 pound), casings removed

3 large cloves garlic, finely minced

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 large bunch broccoli rabe, washed, dried, and coarsely chopped

6 quarts water

2 tablespoons salt

1 pound orecchiette or other short dried pasta

Salt and ground black pepper to taste

1/4 cup grated pecorino cheese

Additional grated cheese for serving

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sausage and cook, breaking the meat up with a spoon, until nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and red pepper and cook for 1 minute more. Stir in the broccoli rabe. Cover and cook until tender, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring the water and salt to a rolling boil in a large pot. Add the pasta and cook until tender but firm. Drain the pasta, leaving some water clinging to the noodles, and add it to the skillet over low heat. Toss to coat and combine, them remove to a large serving bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with the pecorino cheese. Serve immediately, passing additional grated cheese.

Teresa Taylor is the food editor. Reach her at food@postandcourier.com or 937-4886.