Dining Reviews	Lunch Counter	Restaurant Guide

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For some good dining, Cru delivers

In the cozy confines of a lemon-drop yellow Charleston single house, chef-owner John Zucker and chef de cuisine Ryan Sullivan deliver an eclectic menu grounded in tradition and tweaked, not tricked, with global and local influences.

In 2006, Zucker took a little "R and R" from his company Cru Catering and completed a renovation and refurbishing of the property formerly known as Pinckney Cafe and Espresso at 18 Pinckney St. A soft wash of color, well-positioned wall sconces, memorabilia from chef's Cordon Bleu education, an oversized whisk and two fireplaces set the stage for a restaurant that from the start satisfied locals and tourists alike.

Today, you can take a seat at a narrow pass that allows you the catbird seat into the open kitchen or settle down with seven other "soon to be your best friends" at the high-top community table. The front porch provides all the languor of a Lowcountry summer's day — perfect for sweet tea and Buttermilk Fried Oyster Salad ($7).

The vigorous and solid training of Le Cordon Bleu shows itself in the consummate skill with which Zucker and his staff toss a mess of Napa cabbage, daikon radish, carrots, chicken and a ginger dressing into a credible Asian entree; butter-poach shrimp for a unique take on a BLT; or slowly braise a duck into a succulent Confit Salad over Arugula ($7) with candied pecans, stellar fried onion strings and a port wine vinaigrette that is the perfect foil in sweetness and acidity for the duck.

Fried Green Tomatoes ($10.95) were topped with grilled shrimp edged in char, tender-crisp in texture and finished with lobster butter. The latter tasted every ounce of a classic Sauce Americaine reduced to a concentrated essence of lobster, tarragon, cognac and tomatoes bound with butter.

Cru Cafe offers simply grilled tuna, paillard of chicken or New York strip steak with your choice of sauce along with a simple salad of peppery, nutty arugula.

Fried Chicken ($19.25) goes south of the border, lined with a roasted poblano, a chile whose herbal and spicy flavors are tempered by a molten cushion of mozzarella. This dish, an orb of fried chicken, was marred by a slight overcooking and a browned bottom but cannot be faulted for creativity.

Local Triggerfish ($23.75) was dusted in pepper and pan-roasted with butterbeans, concasse of tomato, creamed yellow corn and smoky bits of ham. Every bite gave you a hit of heat, sweet, salty and earthy.

This is not a kitchen on auto pilot. Their culinary passport (training) allows them to dance with sriracha, carnaroli, chipotle and jerk and not step on many toes.

Their soups hit all the right notes whether a cold Gazpacho ($3.75) or warm Vegetable Beef.

Their Four Cheese Macaroni ($6.50) is a local favorite, and its recipe can be found on the Web.

Desserts will not disappoint. A Strawberry Bread Pudding ($6.25) served warm with a crown of lightly whipped cream reminded me of the bread pudding souffle at Brennan's in New Orleans. Its light bread "custard" flavored with strawberries put a new spin on bread puddings and their usual heft.

Our server was attentive; informed about the ingredients, preparations and flavor profiles. She also acted as our sommelier and her suggested Australian Nugan Family Chardonnay ($7 a glass) was a crisp match for the fish and the Coteaux de Languedoc ($7 glass) had the right acidity for the fried chicken.

Cru Cafe is showing its age; the slightly worn patina of use. It delivers the familiar in a fresh way and when it reaches for the global pantry, it does so without straining.

Zucker chose the proper name for his restaurant. Cru is all about growth, being true to your terroir and delivering a quality product. And like a vineyard, it does not happen in a vacuum.