Civil War sub still awaits own museum
The Post and Courier
Sunday, June 10, 2007
Grace Beahm
Tours of 40 visitors at a time gather on a platform to peer down at the H. L. Hunley submerged in a massive water tank in North Charleston. Personal effects and other artifacts are displayed through the rest of the warehouse.
Storied showman P.T. Barnum once offered $100,000 to anyone who could find the wreck of the H.L. Hunley, a Confederate submarine and the first underwater vessel to sink an enemy ship. The 144-year-old vessel was resurrected from the ocean floor in 2000, but it's still difficult to find. The craft now lies in a giant tank of water in North Charleston, miles from the Holy City's core of picturesque homes and tourist attractions. Unlike other Charleston sites, few signs mark its location. Despite settling under the radar, the hand-powered vessel has proved a strong and reliable tourism engine, though ticket sales are not nearly as brisk as they were six years ago. On weekends, the eight scientists cleaning and preserving the craft go home, and the crowds come in: Hordes of tourists negotiate blocks of boarded-up buildings and barbed wire-topped fences en route to the tiny parking lot that surrounds the submarine's current resting place on the former Charleston Navy Base. "We really didn't know what to expect when we first started ... because it's not a true, formal museum setting," said Chris Sullivan, vice chairman of the state Hunley Commission. "I know the first couple of times I went down there I got lost." About 308,000 people have toured the sub since it was hoisted from the ocean floor seven years ago, according to Friends of the Hunley, the nonprofit set up to oversee the vessel. Despite being open only on weekends for 12 hours a week total, the former Navy warehouse where the Hunley lies cradled like a sick whale draws more visitors than some of the area's most prominent attractions. Last year, the sub welcomed 37,000 guests over roughly 100 days, while the Gibbes Museum of Art, which is open virtually year-round, sold about 28,000 tickets. An untold number of people were turned away from the lab because they showed up on weekdays. Distress call Drawing tourists, however, has never been the priority for the submarine's current overseers. Preservation and conservation have been and remain their primary charges. When the sunken sub was first located, people were told they would not be able to see it for about a decade, the time it would take to excavate the silt-packed hull and preserve what remained of its eight-man crew and their effects. "A little old lady called me absolutely distraught and said, 'I won't be alive in 10 years.' That's when we knew we had to figure something out," said Kellen Correia, a spokeswoman for Friends of the Hunley. With lines down the block after a few weeks of public tours, the group decided to keep the submarine open on weekends, though it still hardly advertises beyond its Web site at www.hunley.org. >"When people call and say, 'I want to visit the museum,' I cringe, because this isn't a museum," Correia said. "It's a big warehouse, not Disneyland." In seven years, however, the Hunley's tourism generator keeps running, even though it is switched off much of the time. The submarine has drawn an average of about 43,000 people annually and is gaining popularity with school field trips and groups that arrange to come midweek. Roughly 70 percent of Hunley visitors come from out of state. About half are Civil War buffs. The rest are drawn by other elements: the story of bravery, the unexplained mystery of its sinking, a seminal example of naval engineering. The ship even has a following in Germany because of its lineage to the U-boats of the two world wars. If the Hunley's attendance and admission price stay afloat, its nonprofit will garner at least $512,000 a year in ticket sales. Those kind of results have sparked a civil war of sorts among local tourism factions for rights to the sub's final resting place, almost 150 years since it sank the USS Housatonic and went missing. In 2002, Charleston, Mount Pleasant and North Charleston squared off with proposed museums for the craft. Charleston touted the Aquarium Wharf area and $5 million of funding. Mount Pleasant pushed a site on the state-owned Patriots Point Naval Museum and an $8 million bid. North Charleston won the battle with the promise of $13 million and a 40,000 square-foot facility on the old Navy Base. Maximum exposure? But North Charleston has yet to ink an agreement with Friends of the Hunley or the state Hunley Commission, and some politicians and hospitality promoters still think the craft belongs closer to other popular tourism stops down the Cooper River. Rick Mosteller, vice president of Fort Sumter Tours, estimated that a Hunley museum would draw 20 percent more visitors if it were on the banks of Charleston Harbor. "I don't want in any way to 'dis' North Charleston," Mosteller said. "But the truth is, if the Hunley's over there, it's an island — it's a tourist island." He said his ferry business, which hauls tourists to and from Fort Sumter, has benefited greatly from its docking locations at Patriots Point and the South Carolina Aquarium. "My instincts and my experience lead me to believe that if the goal is to maximize the exposure of the Hunley and have the highest visitation levels, that can be accomplished most efficiently and effectively with synergy," he said. Mosteller conceded, however, the cash North Charleston has offered might produce a better museum that could offset the purported advantage of being near other tourist attractions. Harry Hallman, who as mayor of Mount Pleasant is a member of the state Hunley Commission, also harbors no ill will toward North Charleston or Friends of the Hunley. But he still thinks the submarine belongs at Patriots Point. "We would have had the entire history of naval submarine warfare in one museum," Hallman said last week. "What a tourism magnet that would be for this whole part of the state down here." Hallman, who also is a member of the Patriots Point Development Authority, said interest and visitation would wane if the sub is bolted down in North Charleston. Sullivan, second-in-command of the sub commission behind state Sen. Glenn McConnell, said North Charleston "was, is and remains" the best option for the Hunley. "There's sort of a blessing and a curse in downtown Charleston," he said. "It is definitely the center of attention, but you've got traffic problems and congestion problems and problems getting the size of facility that we'd like." Charleston Mayor Joe Riley could not be reached for comment last week. With each year that goes by, interest in the sub wanes, as measured by admission figures. Visitation has sunk 30 percent since its 2001 peak at 52,500. And ticket sales plummeted by 13 percent in the first four months of this year compared with the same period of 2006. A Hunley museum, however, is still a long way off — at least four years, according to Sullivan. Scientists will soon sink the ship in a chemical bath for six years to leach salt and other corrosives from its iron hull. Though there is still some talk about a last-ditch effort to plant the sub closer to other proven attractions, the political battle for the Hunley appears to be dying down. "I think somebody else ought to begin the debate," Hallman said. "I sort of wore myself out the last go-round."
Reach Kyle Stock at 937-5763 or kstock@postandcourier.com.
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